Gotham Bar & Grill

09/05/2008 22:33

Into its third decade, this New American pioneer in the Village shows no sign of slowing down. Though the lofty dining room of this fine-dining staple has recieved minor tweaks over the years, the general aesthetic remains the same. A base of Grecian grandeur--columns, marble railings and a garden view through tall windows in the back--gets layered with nods to the neighborhood's arty history, including the famous cloth pieces that hang from the ceiling like elegant pastry bags. The service is impeccable, and makes everyone from power-players to once-a-year splurgers feel equally important.

The Food

Alfred Portale's dinner menu is divided into three courses, anda melange of flavors is skillfully combined without overkill throughout. The creamy flavor of bay scallops withstand their avocado, coconut and watermelon radish accompaniment, and somehow king crab, Meyer lemon and butternut squash make natural dish-mates in a perfectly cooked risotto. If miso-marinated black cod lacks depth, the wonderfully simple ricotta cheesecake dotted with huckleberries proves that not every dish needs such intricacy.

Hits: Gracious service and a reliably tasty menu prove why Gotham has endured in the fickle restaurant scene.

Misses: A few of the decor elements--including the studded columns and exposed ceiling pipes--feel stuck in the 80s.

What to Drink

Before digging into the massive, international wine list ($38-$1,750), a great pre-meal option is the potent Whiskey Smash ($14), a mix of lemon, mint, simple syrup and whiskey.

Where to Sit

The restaurant encourages last-minute and solo diners to eat at the bar with a substantial list of half-bottles of wine.

Prix Fixe Menu

Monday through Friday, lunch is a good value at $31 for three courses.

Group Dining

The space can be reserved for private dinners of up to 140 people.